The BIG decision. Where will I like to live and fish the rest of my life? I have looked at the guidebooks and maps and it all looks good. My style is wading, and I always have my dog with me. Which one has more good wading style water closer to town? Off topic but also wondering about jobs/economy in these towns and which might be better for mountain bike trails. Opinions, facts, B.S.? Thanks.

Split the difference and live in Butte.




It is all good.

Scott - That's hilarious. Not that Butte's bad, it's just going to give him another choice that will likely just make it harder to make a decision.

Vagabond - I don't live in either Missoula or Bozeman, but I very much like both towns. Scott's right though - it's all good. Both towns have plenty of great fly fishing nearby and wadeable.

The question - Bozeman vs Missoula is sort of like Blondes or Brunettes.

I don't know how old you are, but if you were my kid, I'd say spend some time in both towns, do some fishing and looking around. Then decide because no one's going to be able to tell you which you'll like spending the rest of your life living in.

That is funny...

Been a long time since I lived there but I have always missed Bozeman since I moved back to Idaho
.
At least you are not choosing between Glendive and Browning.

I would also look at Helena too.
Like they have said before, it is all good.
I have lived in both Bozeman and Missoula and I perfer Bozeman.

Both are good towns, with universities and good fishing.
If you like Winter, Bozeman has lots of it.
If you bird hunt, Bozeman has lots of it.
Missoula has more good fishing close to town.
Thirty one years ago, both were in my top three choices when looking for a place to live.
But, I chose Lewiston, Idaho and have been happy ever since.

I've lived in Missoula for 7 1/2 years and love it. It is a very easy town to get to know people and get involved in issues, politics, organizations, etc. I don't know Bozeman at all and I don't think you can go wrong with either town. Missoula is a major dog town, but I suspect Bozeman is as well.

It always pays to bring your own job if your moving to Montana.

Well...I had the same choice last year (plus several other cities in the mix). I have kids and a family, so my needs may differ from yours, but I ultimately chose Bozeman, and we moved here last year. I have a fly fishing friend in Missoula, and she loves it there...so honestly I'm not sure you can go wrong. Here are some things I've learned...others can confirm or deny my opinions.

-Bozeman is more expensive, the housing market being the worst offender. While home prices took a hit in 2008, "good" family houses that don't look like 1970 are still very pricey. Energy prices are also expensive vs where I came from , though I don't think they differ much from Missoula, so that is likely a wash. Home rental market is VERY challenging to find anything but a "college" rental.

-Bozeman is big enough to serve every need I've had thus far, but small enough to still have a great "town" atmosphere and events. Downtown is awesome. Restaurants are a bit slim. MSU support is fantastic, though we do apparently have a knack of getting waxed by big brother U of Montana in most sports.

-Personally, I would not move anywhere without having a job first, but I also have a lot of responsibilities (family/kids) that you may not.

-In my field (technology), Bozeman has a much better professional "scene", with several larger tech firms and a very good entrepreneurial spirit. I had heard that Missoula salaries for professional jobs were quite low, but can't confirm.

-Missoula is west of the divide, and there suffers from "inversion". Not exactly sure what that means other than it is cloudy there much of the winter. Bozeman is VERY sunny year round. Others talk about the clouds in Missoula in a similar vein as Seattle (can be depressing).

-Bozeman has a reputation state-wide of being more like California than Montana (a lot of CA transplants) and a bit "snooty". There may be some truth to that, but it can be avoided.

-Bozeman was also just ranked by National Geographic magazine as one of the top 25 ski towns in the WORLD (thanks in part to Big Sky), if that is your thing. In fact, Bozeman is just as much a ski town, if not more-so, than it is a fishing town.

-Fishing-wise, from downtown Bozeman, I can be fishing the lower Gallatin in 30 minutes, probably closer to 45 minutes to reach the canyon waters. It is a waders dream, if you are a strong wader. I can be fishing the lower Madison in about 45-minutes-1 hour, which is very wade-able. Upper Madison above Ennis Lake is closer to 1.5 hours, and West Yellowstone is also 1.5 hours. 45 minutes to Livingston and the spring creeks and the Yellowstone river, double that to get to the Yellowstone in the heart of Paradise Valley.

So, I wouldn't say fishing is right out my back door, but it is close. Honestly, Missoula has just as many fishing options, from what I've seen. I would say access to Yellowstone tips the scales to Bozeman for me, but I'm sure Missoula has plenty of similar type access/water. As others have said...they are both good.

I can certainly give you more information on Bozeman if you want. Hit me up if you have any specific questions. Unfortunately, at this stage in my life here, I know more about that town than I do the fishing! Gotta change that!

Just my opinion (based on having to deal with my brother-in-law; let's just leave it at that), but I've always thought Missoula had more of a hippie vibe; not saying that's good or bad and others may disagree.
I like the flyshops in Missoula a lot - Kingfisher, Grizzly Hackle, Missoulian Angler (used to have great deals on locally harvested partridge but that was years ago). Only one I've frequented much in Bozeman is Troutfitters and that's a good one, too. If you have any Simms gear and you have a problem, it's kinda cool to just drop by their office in BZN - stopped there last April with a pair of leaky waders (still wet; I'd been fishing the Yellowstone about 45 minutes before) and they swapped them for a new pair on the spot.
Like other folks have said, you should spend some time in both places to see if they offer what you're looking for. That suggestion about Helena should be investigated, too; beautiful country up there and you're near some outstanding fishing and hiking (and I'd imagine mountain biking). Wherever you end up, your dog will be happy.




That would be an entirely different thread. Haven't been to Glendive, but I have been to Browning a number of times and no matter how great the fishing is on the Blackfeet and how spectacular the scenery is (once you get away from town), the best way to view Browning is in your rearview mirror as you haul a.s out on Hwy 89.


Regards,
Scott

hippies or hollywood?? haha just kidding!

Ill be in big sky or west by june! which ever you go with, montana is awesome. If only Idaho would be come a medical state.

Missoula: bigger town and all the pros and cons that go with that.

Bozeman: smaller town and all the pros and cons that go with that.

I have lived in big cities and I have lived in not so big cities. I have since moved to a small town, Dillon. No traffic to speak of and only two traffic lights in town. The closest big town is Butte, Where we do our major food shopping once a month.

The only thing you have to watch out for in Dillon is the old ladies that think they own all the roads in town. I believe that the old people in town are the worst drivers I have ever seen.

But I'm also retired, and have been since 1999. Close to the Beaverhead and the Big Hole. What more could one ask for.

dillion rocks! great harvest bread slices.. mmm..

I suppose I'll get in on this one. I moved to Missoula in Aug 2010 from Portland for the main reason that I love to fish. Not that the fishing is bad in Oregon. ? But after being here..... jeeeeez man. I dont have a T.V., computer(I'm typing this on a friends), so I can't tell you whats going on with local politics. I moved here for the fishing and the outdoors. And it is awesome. I didn't move here for the people so I don't have that many buddies which is fine by me. I CAN tell you that there are over 300 FLOATABLE miles within an hour of Missoula. Not to mention all the small creeks and tribs. Some of which hold outstanding fish. The wildlife is great. I can look at the hills on the northside of town and always see deer. Peek out the front door and see elk up on Mt Jumbo. Bald eagles here in town. And moose, bears, cougars, coyotes..... beavers, otters.... the list goes on. The Bitterroots( YES!!) are right here with trails going up each canyon. Most of which have a lake in them. Rattlesnake Wilderness on the North side of town, Hiking, Biking, Fishing, Camping.
The Bighole is but a couple few hours away. Glacier Nat. Park is 3 hrs. maybe 6 hrs to Yellowstone. 2 hrs over into Idaho for Steelhead. (Hush up Northwesters!!) Steelhead they are. Year round fishing as long as there isn't to much ice. You'll catch lots of whitefish, which is fine, cuz we put em in the smoker. But when, on a cold, snowy day in December, you watch your indicator go under and you finally land that pig rainbow that looks as healthy as they do in the summer and fall, oh boy. Clark Flork, Bitterroot, Blackfoot, Rock Creek. They are all right here. Mountain biking is very abundant. Dogs everywhere. If you take you dog fishing, remember that this is wild country. Wild critters that dont care if its a dog or a deer. Now about employment. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GREAT, STEADY JOB. Not sure what field you're in. I was homeless and Jobless for the vast majority of last year. Not a bad place to be in that situation if you like what I do. Fishing. I've been here a little over a year and a half now and only been employed for maybe 8 of those months. Not because I didn't look for jobs, there just isn't really much there. Pay cut. ouch. I've made so far this year what I made in a month in Portland. Lots of good music comes through town. If you're into drinking beer(which is a way of life here) there are quite a few brewpubs with some darn good beer. That what people do here. Drink. Not really for me personally. I make a 6 pack last me a month. I've got better things to spend my money on. Like gas to go fish. Hippies there are, and I was warned before I moved here. Not a fan of hippies really. Seems everybody here is stoned all the time. blah. I can only speak of Missoula, never been to Bozeman. It's a great town IF you have a good job. Hell, it's a great town anyway. Whichever you choose, You're gonna love Montana. Its absolutely beautiful here. If you choose Missoula, I'd try the Missoulian Angler. Top notch fellas there. Huge fly selection, the biggest fly tying selection in town. So thats that for me. Is it just you or is there a family coming with you ? If you make it here, hit me up. I have alot to pay back in this life. That goes for any of you who read this and make it to Missoula. Good luck !!
Josh

You can't go wrong with either city if you love the outdoors. Missoula gets labeled as the hippie city and there is some truth to it, but it doesn't bother this old hippie (cleverly disguised as a businessman) one bit. This is a very engaged community.

One more reason to move to Missoula: We have the funniest mayor in the country in John Engen.

Bozeman by far.... very dog friendly town and way better fishing nearby than Missoula in my opinion. better weather too

umm keep in mind that these are by Montana standards.. fishing in Missoula is great I just prefer the Bozeman area fishing...

If i was to live in Montana my top chices for places to live would be

1. Ennis
2. West Yellowstone
3 Dillon
4. Phillipsburg


People laugh about Butte but it's a pretty centrally located city and housing prices are really good there. particularly if you were a history buff that also liked do it yourself kind of work around the house.. Some of the old Victorians in up town are gorgeous , just in need of restoration and are cheap

I live in Bozeman, but grew up north of Missoula. The biggest difference is the weather. Bozeman has much sunnier winters, but the sun comes at a cost of cold... twenty or thirty below a couple of times each winter is pretty typical here. Missoula used to be famous for its smoggy winter inversions, but I think they shut down a few of the big polluters so it isn't quite as bad. However, it is this winter cloud cover that keeps Missoula a bit warmer.

Yellowstone is an easy day trip from Bozeman. OTOH, Missoula is close to the Flathead and Swan, which have a lot more variety of fishes.

I think it is easier to "escape" town here. Missoula goes on forever, especially if you are heading down the Bitterroot.

Hay Zeus Rob: West has winter 9 months of the year and it still snows the other three. BBBBRRRRRR

Long time no see Mark... Bridger Bowl ski area (16 miles from Bozeman) got 18" of snow today. back to the OP... You can expect snow days for another month. If you don't like winter, I mean really like winter, don't move to Montana. At least Bzn has the sun.

Around here fly fishing is really spotty from November through Feb because of ice on the rivers and wind that will blow water 20' onto the bank. Then May-July is mostly shot cause of run-off unless you want to fish tailwaters or lakes. That is 7 months of notsogreat... If you just want fishing, you are going to be dreaming about it for much of the year. I honestly get sick of trout too... I live here for the ecosystems that are still intact (and there is no place like home). Yo can get mauled by a grizzly on your lunch break. That's what MT is about. I'd have moved somewhere else if I wanted to fish every day.

Tailwaters of the west arent too shabby though, and lakes are just another field to cover. Id love to have prime fishing every day but it isnt realistic. Being able to catch 20 inch+ rainbows in the middle of winter even if it is below a damn beats winter steelhead. haha Im moving back to the yellowstone area because, like you said, no place like home. especially when its that area.

I dont know where there is prime fishing 365 days a year. Even in the most temperate places there is still seasonal flux of fish and wind that makes for off days or weeks.

Beautiful sunny day in Bozeman today with temps in the mid fifties. (Overcast in Missoula, 90% chance of rain.) The 8" of snow we got the other day is melting quick.

My wife wanted to go fish the Madison today so we checked the wind:
Norris Hill (Madison): 42 MPH.
Paradise Valley (Yellowstone): 30 MPH.

Good day to spring ski or otherwise enjoy the snow... fishing, notsomuch

True, but the closest is the Missouri 130 miles away. I guess you could count the Beartrap on the Madison, but it is a top-water release so it really isn't like a normal tailwater. Plus it isn't a good dry fly stream during the high water, but great for throwing crawdads and a nice walk.

rg

13:00 21 March 2012
Gary Cooper Bridge
Missouri River
Temp: 45 degrees
Wind: Calm
Conditions: Sunny

Flow at Holter: 5240 cfs
Water Temp: 37 F

Miles from my house to the Blue Ribbon Section of the Mo: 31

So why am I at home doing my taxes instead of fly fishing?

Because there are large rainbows and browns schooled up in the soft water sipping gently on midges and bwo, pounding the occasional skwala. Whom would want to be fishing to those guys right now. Nobody else on the water but the migrating birds.
Sorry, I kind of got off base.
Why are you doing your taxes in the middle of the day when you have all night to do them?
Get out there Snowbear, conditions are prime, it's why you live in MT, right.

SnowBear, God invented night for things like doing taxes.

Snowbear,

If you go up there say hey to the walleye guys if they're around. Funny as h.ll seeing folks heading up at dusk carrying surf rods, lawn chairs and heavy duty headlamps; also saw a few working with switch rods right about the first bend at the top of the pasture. Heard of a few pushing 30" but I never saw anyone latch on.

Regards,
Scott

My best day ever was at the bottom end of the bear trap in June 40 = or- trout landed ( just the ones landed)in 2 hours all on big dry stonefly patterns smallest one was 18 inches got two browns back to back that were 24 inches! Now I am not saying that good dry fly on the Lower Madison is the norm but even with that just being one day of my life that part of the river will always be to me one of the best dry fly streams on the planet.

I caught a 12.5 pound walleye hen on a bugger up near Holter, but that was my biggest. And that was in the mid 1990s after some high water years.

I don't release Walleye. That particular hen had 3 small rainbows in her gut.

Trust me, you got extremely lucky if you got 40 fish on dries in 2 hours or even 40 fish in a day. And you are talking about another river if they were all over 18", sorry. The river has a decent mother's day caddis hatch, but even that can be spotty if the spring is cold. That is the bonus of living here though, you can't plan for the good days so you have to be close enough to head out on a moment's notice.

My wife went out yesterday anyway and said the wind was smashing down so hard on the river in some places it was spraying water ten feet in the air! When that happens you can get soaked even standing on shore. That should end in a week or two...

No actually I am talking about the Lower Madison. The first access below the Beartrap canyon. some friends had floated the beat trap the day before for fun and had mentioned seeing a few adult stoneflies. SO I went and checked it out. Visibility was poor so I started nymphing with a Bitch creek and got a couple. I noticed however that as it grew dark i was getting lots of hits as my nymph swung into shore.. I cam back the next morning armed with a dozen improved sofa pillows and proceeded to have the day I mentioned above. Most of the fish I hooked ran out into the river ( water was VERY high) and they came unbuttoned. I have no clue how many I hooked and lost but far more than the ones I landed.

I'll never have that good of fishing again and from what I understand stonefly hatches in that area are unusual but I can tell you this. If i ever hear a rumor of people seeing them there I am going to drop whatever I am doing, drive the 800 miles just to see. There are/were LOTS of very large trout in there.

Rob, sorry, but I've been fishing that area for 25 years. You did not land, on average, one fish every three minutes, smallest being 18" for 2 hours straight. There is a good population of 12-14 inch fish there that are impossible to avoid in the spring (the river is too warm in the summer), and only on a good day can you find a few fish over 18". And if you hook one it will probably take more than three minutes to land. Even scaling 18" to 14", I'd say you had an unusually great, but plausible, day.

it's called Central Oregon !!

haha Sorry i had to S4T




There are river in Oregon you can catch that many fish in a day just not in the 12-16 range. More like 6-10 inch range... (Crooked River )

whatever.

Rob A,
I have fished that section in the the same scenario and it can be unbelievable when the water is off color and the big bugs are on the water. You will remember that day forever, as I will.

Rob G,
I think you should fish through the bikini hatch more often and try to focus on the fish, they are still there even with all that ass in the water.

Yeah, they are there, but the fishing tapers off quite a bit in general in my experience during the day. Maybe notsomuch since they started pulsing flows... Some people claim the hooking mortality is pretty high when the temps are up. I have a hard time casting between inner tubes when there is so much more water and backcountry available in the summer so I'll leave it to you and Rob.